Nicosia
A slow morning inside the walls of old Nicosia
A loop from Eleftheria Square through Laiki Geitonia, the Archbishop's quarter and the Famagusta Gate, with a coffee stop or two.
Slow travel on one island
Unhurried notes from the coves, ridges and old streets of Cyprus
Olive Trails collects field notes from days spent driving, walking and swimming around Cyprus. Each piece covers one route or one area and focuses on what tends to be missing from glossy guides: where the car actually goes, which hour the light is best, and when a place is pleasantly empty.
Nothing here is sponsored. Places are visited at our own pace, in ordinary weather, often more than once.
Latest notes
Troodos
Troodos villages in a single day
Omodos, Platres and Kakopetria on one winding loop from Limassol, plus a painted church that is easy to miss.
East coast
Quiet beaches on the east coast
Where to swim around Ayia Napa and Protaras when the big beaches are full, and how early you really need to be there.
How the notes are written
Every route is driven or walked before it is described. Times and distances are rounded honestly and assume a relaxed pace.
Getting around
A rental car opens up most of the island. Intercity buses work well between the main towns, less so in the mountains.
When to go
April–June and late September–November are the kindest months. July and August are hot; plan outdoor time for early morning.